Why Portofino?
Tiny, impossibly pretty and wrapped in pine-covered hills, Portofino is the Italian Riviera at its most iconic. Candy-coloured houses curve around a yacht-filled harbour, hidden pathways weave through jasmine and olive trees and long lunches somehow drift effortlessly into sunset aperitivos. It’s early morning focaccia dipped into cappuccino and secret garden pathways scented with lemon blossom.
Where is Portofino?
Portofino sits on the Ligurian coast in north-west Italy, around an hour south-east of Genoa and close to the chic seaside town of Santa Margherita Ligure. It’s perfectly placed for a longer Italian journey… combine it with Milan, Lake Como or Tuscany, or it also works beautifully as a standalone long weekend escape.
Getting There
The easiest airports are Genoa and Pisa. Genoa is closest, with transfers taking around 1 hour 15 minutes, while Pisa offers more UK flight options, including British Airways from Heathrow and several low-cost routes from London airports. Transfers from Pisa take approximately 1 hour 45 minutes.
A little Turquoise tip? If flying into Pisa during peak season, pre-book seats near the front of the aircraft, passport control can be painfully slow so get in front of the queue!
Alternatively, Italy’s train network makes Portofino wonderfully accessible. Milan is only around two hours away by rail, followed by a short transfer to the coast. Many locals will tell you the train is actually the best way to arrive, with beautiful scenery unfolding along the Riviera and none of the winding coastal roads.
Where to Stay in Portofino?
If Portofino had a grand dame, this would be her. Originally a monastery before becoming a private home, Splendido is one of the Italian Riviera’s most iconic hotels, elegant and cinematic, yet somehow still deeply warm and welcoming. Hollywood legends once escaped here and the glamour remains, but what really sets it apart is the atmosphere. The staff are effortlessly kind, the gardens feel almost enchanted and despite the prestige, nothing feels overly formal. The hotel itself sits above the harbour, hidden amongst lush terraced gardens filled with jasmine, lemon trees and ancient olive groves. Pathways lined with herbs attract clouds of butterflies, while tucked-away seating areas create little moments of privacy overlooking the bay.
Rooms are individually designed due to the building’s heritage, with balconies that are made for slow mornings and pre-dinner drinks.
The food options are impeccable. Breakfast at La Terrazza is worth waking up for alone, with fresh pastries and focaccia served alongside cappuccino, champagne on ice and views stretching across the harbour. There’s also a beautiful poolside grill, an elegant bar that becomes one of Portofino’s most sought-after evening spots in summer and the first permanent Dior Spa in Italy.
Best for: Honeymoons, celebratory trips and travellers wanting classic Riviera glamour with impeccable service.
- Splendido Mare
Right on Portofino’s harbourfront, Splendido Mare offers a completely different experience. Smaller, more relaxed and immersed in the energy of the piazza, this boutique hotel is all about being in the heart of the action. Think morning espresso overlooking the boats, aperitivos as the harbour comes alive and lingering dinners with front-row people-watching. There are very few facilities here, guests are welcome to use those at Splendido via complimentary shuttle, but what it lacks in resort-style amenities, it makes up for in atmosphere and location.
Rooms feel bright and airy thanks to high ceilings and small terraces or balconies, while extras like complimentary beach club access at nearby Paraggi make it particularly appealing during warmer months. Guests also enjoy a complimentary one-hour boat experience along the coastline.
Best for: Couples wanting the buzz of Portofino on their doorstep and shorter stays with a more social feel.
- Villa Beatrice
For complete privacy, Villa Beatrice is extraordinary. Built in 1913 and protected for its historic character, the villa sits between Portofino and Paraggi Bay, hidden amongst tiered gardens with sweeping sea views. Every detail feels theatrical, from hand-painted façades, ornate ceilings, tiny balconies and even the original wooden lift still in operation. There’s a private pool, outdoor terraces, a pizza oven and even dining within the villa’s turret. Stays include butler service, a private chef and experiences ranging from yoga and spa treatments to cookery classes and guided local tours.
With four bedrooms plus a separate cottage, it works beautifully for multi-generational family escapes, milestone celebrations or intimate weddings.
Best for: Families, groups and ultra-private luxury stays with fully tailored experiences.
When to Go
Portofino is often associated with glamorous summer escapes, but in truth, the shoulder seasons are when it’s at its most magical.
May and early June bring warm sunshine, flowers in bloom and beautifully calm evenings before peak crowds arrive. Restaurants feel lively but relaxed and there’s still space to linger over lunch without queues. September and October offer warm seas, golden light and a softer atmosphere once the height of summer fades.
July and August are undeniably glamorous, but Portofino’s tiny harbour can become busy with day visitors and cruise passengers. If travelling during these months, staying slightly above town at Splendido gives you the perfect escape whenever the harbour gets crowded.
The real secret season to visit, to escape the crowds and cruise ships, would be during our winter. November sunshine can still be warm enough for outdoor lunches, days by the pool and new local rules mean many restaurants and businesses now remain open for longer throughout the year.
Step into the rhythm of the Riviera with Turquoise. Contact our team of specialists today for your bespoke quote. 01494678400. Enquire Now
