The reclaimed land of Aeroport De La Pointe Larue on Mahe gives you a tantalising glimpse of what’s to come. Through the perspex of my oval window, I saw tiny islands embedded in an azure ocean, washed with creamy white surf and on the other wingtip, lush tropical vegetation tumbling down steep hillsides. No airport I can think of has so much natural beauty so close to its perimeter fence.
The Seychelles is no mass tourism destination. Across its 114 islands, the population is less than 100,000 – and UK visitors make up just 14% of that. To arrive is a privilege. To leave is heartbreaking. From the moment I landed, I wanted to return with my wife and children. The Seychelles is truly one of the world’s last true refuges.
The country has a Caribbean twist – relaxed, informal. There aren’t many places in the world where you step off a Dreamliner and, within 100 feet, are whisked away in an air-conditioned car. French is widely spoken, and Creole is a variation, but everyone I met expressed a healthy and amusing disrespect for the French.
To reach Constance Ephelia, we crossed the spine of Mahe, past peaks over 900m and locals in the backs of Land Cruisers heading to work in Victoria. My brilliant driver – up for an award – fed me facts, jokes and anecdotes the whole way. He triumphantly told me “no one sleeps in my transfer”! He made the journey fly by.
Although a large hotel, Constance Ephelia is low-rise, cleverly camouflaged, and set across 100 acres with two magnificent beaches. Great for couples and families alike, my stay was all too short.
We travelled by boat to Praslin, (the crossing can be choppy at certain times so best avoid the local Takamaka rum the night before!) and on to Constance Lemuria; a small luxury resort with 105 rooms and a wickedly difficult golf course. It has a Swiss Family Robinson feel, unspoilt beaches and their cliffside restaurant made it a real highlight.
A day trip to La Digue was the perfect end to my trip and a total must-do. Almost car-free, the island demands a bike – with beach bars conveniently popping up as your legs give out. This tiny island is home the most photographed beach in the world. With its ancient granite boulders, crystal-clear shallows, and lush jungle backdrop, La Digue delivers exactly the scenery that defines the Seychelles in the world’s imagination. The boat ride back to Praslin is short, so I risked a lunch of grilled prawns and cold rosé at Fish Trap to rest my quads and bottom from all that pedalling.
I’ve never been so sad to leave a destination – full of nature, charm and untamed beauty. Some places are better without mass tourism. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth every penny for the exclusivity, wonder and memories. I left with regret… and short of golf balls.
